Devil’s Head is one of the more recognizable peaks on the Front Range, being the most prominent feature on the horizon between Mount Blue Sky to the north and Pikes Peak to the south. The rocky outcrop stands high above the foothills of the Rampart Range, belying its modest elevation of 9,748 feet.
I first climbed Devil’s Head 25 years ago. I was looking for a good “warm-up” hike for some more intense hikes I had planned later in the year, and a friend recommended the Devil’s Head Fire Lookout Trail, which is a few miles south of Highway 67 on Rampart Range Road just outside of Sedalia. “It’s a pretty short hike, but the views are worth it,” he said. That turned out to be an understatement — kind of like saying the Vatican is just a “church.” I was blown away by the 360-degree vistas at the summit, which extend nearly 100 miles on a clear day. I always wanted to go back and have another look from the top, but work, life, and other distractions have a funny way of interfering with my outdoor adventures. I always thought about it, though, every time I looked to the horizon.
Recently, my daughter and I were trying to think of something fun to do outdoors on a sunny Saturday morning. As I was scratching my head, she pointed to Devil’s Head and asked, “Have you ever been up there?” We were on our way 15 minutes later.
The drive down Rampart Range Road was a bit farther than I had recalled, and I was a little concerned that we might not get a parking space at the trailhead given our late start, as there is only space for about 25 cars, but we lucked out. From the trailhead, it is 1.4 miles to the top, with an elevation gain of nearly 900 feet. As you leave the parking area, a tall stand of aspen gives way to Douglas fir and blue spruce shading your ascent. After a wet spring, wildflowers of almost every color line the edge of the trail, which has been improved over the years. Steps dug into the ridge help prevent erosion, and there are numerous benches and tables along the way in case you need to rest or are just looking for a good vantage point for photos.
There is a small wooden ranger cabin in a meadow near the summit. Behind the cabin is a metal staircase bolted to the rocks with 143 steps to complete the ascent to the fire lookout. Although the climb up the stairs isn’t too strenuous, it’s not for those who fear heights. Even those who do not live with acrophobia will be reminded of the adage “Don’t look down.”
A sign at the base of the steps tells the story of the lookout, which has been in continuous use since 1912 and is the last occupied fire lookout in Colorado. Devil’s Head was the duty station for the first female lookout ranger in the United States, Helen Dowe, who served there from 1919 to 1921. The original fire lookout was reconstructed in 1951 — 100 men and 71 mules from the 973rd Engineer Construction Battalion at Fort Carson brought supplies up the mountain — there still is no road to the summit. In 1991, the lookout was listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
The rangers at the lookout are friendly and happy to answer any questions. If you ask them nicely, they will give you a card certifying that, by climbing to the lookout, you have become a member of the Ancient and Honorable Order of Squirrels. They offered me one, too, but I left that esteemed honor to my daughter.
Craig Johnson is an avid outdoorsman who enjoys writing about fly-fishing, hiking, and exploring Colorado.